Friday, September 13, 2013

Bra Pattern Making Modifications - Part 1

I have been working all week with a designer developing a lingerie collection. We made several samples of bras to see what size she actually wears. We have yet to find out which size. She came to me as a 34DDD or a 34F. We have tested sizes 34G, 34H, 34I and when those weren't working, I took her measurements again and went straight to the 34L. Still none were working well.

The 34L was to big, but then again, the 2 piece cup isn't meant to fit a lady that large. She has been wearing a 34F, so out of frustration, we took the 34G and made it into 3 pieces. But before we did that, we moved the apex point about 1/2" - 5/8" towards the center of the body.

This is a modification I've been thinking about for quite a while. I don't think the smaller cups need this change, but the larger cups need a little repositioning. And please feel free to tell me if it doesn't work for you.

For reference, we are using the basic pattern I have on my website. And I can't reiterate this enough - This pattern is not meant to be used unmodified. It is a basic shape to manipulate into a cup of your own design. I can't tell you how many people contact me to ask me why I don't have a picture of the style on my website. I have to email them to tell them it is an ugly style that is meant to be altered. Maybe I shouldn't phrase it that way, I lose the sale. But honestly I don't want people just making a fashion bra straight from this pattern. It is UGLY.

I traced off the 34G. Repositioned the strap placement (which was the first correction I listed last year and you can find it on this blog). Then found the new point for the apex. Moving this over I was able to remove part of the curve on the side of the cup and add a little volume to the center front of the cup. I marked the new cup shape in red. You could potentially do a little more, but unfortunately, you will need to do a sample to test the fit.


I then converted it to a 3 piece cup. I'll show those steps in the next entry. I neglected to take pictures because I have been racking my brain on another way to demonstrate it.

I can definitely tell you that removing all curve from the third piece on the side panel really helped the shape a lot. I will photograph steps today and get them posted tomorrow and we will even be grading the 3 piece cup, so I'll take some pics of those too.

Until then, I have to drink some coffee, which I have none of, so I'll be stopping at the Circle K at the bottom of the mountain again.

On another unrelated lingerie note, Emily, who is now 9 months old is going through bouts of sleep regression. I honestly think she wants and craves more solid food as her digestion has sped up with the milk and she wakes up hungry at night again. The issue with that is, I'm the only one who gives her solid food. David is slightly rejecting it and he's had her all week while I've been training.

And yet again another note- I'm quite affordable these days for lingerie or any type of training. $30 an hour or a full day for $250.

Well, chat later tomorrow.

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