Friday, September 27, 2013

And I have a new draft!

I made a few more changes and I'm very happy with my new draft, but give it some time and I'll hate it again. I made some modifications to the one I posted before, so I deleted that post. I will do my best to list most of the steps so people can try them out. I just don't want to write the book on the blog.

I am going to make a 3 piece cup, now that the cups fit me well I shall see if I get a little more support with the third piece.

Then I have to test grading the pattern. Oh what fun!

First you need to know what band size, underwire/size you wear and what the diameter of your bust is. To get your band size, measure your under bust measurement. Then take your chest measurement (above bust). Take the average number of the two and round to the nearest even number. That is your band.

Then you need the bust measurement. If you want to do accurate, you need to measure each breast. Measure from your center front where the breast starts, measure across to the other side where the breast ends. I have discovered that it does not matter if you sag or don't, this amount will not change. On a sagging breast, measure from the front (looking in the mirror) from where you start to see the breast definition (even if sagging), then measure straight across to the other side where you see the end of the breast definition.

Even with accurate measuring your bust size could vary as some women aren't symmetrical. Try a sample in the side you choose and the size above what you are calculating. The charts below can get you some info.




You need to get your wire diameter too.

Band Draft


On paper, using a ruler and a compass, draw a circle the diameter of the wire. Draw a box around it. To the right, draw a parallel line 3/8"-3/4". I used 3/8".

At the right side center, mark up a line 3/4" up on the line. If you use 3/4", go to the right 1/8" (as pictured- although I erased it in a step later because I used 3/8"), if you use smaller, keep the line where it is.

On the left, mark up 1" from the center and over to the left by 1/4". See Pic below.


I decided to split the ratio up on the band, so take your chest and under bust measurements and find 60% for the front and 40% for the back. (before I had just split it 50/50). Then take 1/2 of each measurement.


On the top line on your grid, mark from the far right out the front measurement in a straight line. On the bottom line, measure out the under bust front measurement. I had some complicated calculation in the book to figure this out and felt that could go away. Connect the two lines with a straight line.


Reduce your back measurements by multiplying the back amounts by .75. Square a line out from the top and bottom lines these amounts.


Then you just need to shape the neckline and waistline. At the side seam measure about 1/4" up. Under the circle, measure down 3/8" - 3/4" (depends on the elastic you use). I used 1/2". At the CF waistline, measure up 1/4".

To find the top of the side seam, duplicate the height of the center front bridge as the side seam. Half way between the CB and the side seam crease and find the strap placement. Use your curves to make your band shape. The Cb depends on the hook and eye tape.


New cup draft

Take your ruler and compass and draw a circle the diameter of the bust. Divide the circle in 4 equal parts and cut the top from the bottom.


On the bottom piece, cut down the center line but keep it attached at the circle. Open the top of the circle 1 1/2" and tape both sides down.

On the right side of the split lower it 10% of your bust diameter. Take your wire diameter, multiply it by Pi and divide by 4. Take that measurement and measure up the sides from the center slip with you flexible ruler.



On the left side, extend the line 10% of the diameter. On the lower right side, measure up 2.5% at the center point, on the left side, measure down 5% in the center and blend a curve from each point.

Before going further, measure from right tip to left tip to make sure it measrues the bust diameter. If it doesn't adjust it.


On the top right line, mark up 2.5% at the half way point. On the left side, measure up 5%. Blend and curve.


Now for the top cup. Start the top cup just like you did on the lower cup. Split and open 1 1/2". Leave the curve attached at the top. (The top and bottom have the same curve) Make sure to measure from point to  point to make sure it  matches the bust diameter.


Walk the lower cup into the band, then walk the top cup and mark where the cup hits the band.


Find the half way point from the far left side to the left side of the slit. Follow the half way point up from the curve 20% of the bust diameter and square across 1/2" to 1" depending on your strap size.


Blend and create your armhole and neckline shapes.

Finished.

Test and try!

2 comments:

  1. Hi there!

    I am a fashion student all the way from South Africa! Your blog is invaluable! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
    I am doing my postgraduate in Fashion and want to do lingerie. I have played with the concept before and am planning to open a lingerie store after my studies with an old colleague of mine.
    It's hard to find your book in South Africa, and I just want to ask a few questions?
    1. I want to buy the Kindle version but heard it doesn't contain the patterns. Does your book show how to draft the foundations from scratch?
    2. I see on your blog you mentioned you are writing another book. When is this one coming out? I can only afford one so I'd like to know if it's worth waiting or if I should get the current one.

    Thanks sooooo much!

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    Replies
    1. The kindle book does not contain the patterns and yes the book shows how to draft from scratch, but the directions above are a revised version of it. I won't be able to update the book for a while, but with Kindle, when I upload changes, it should update on your Kindle (at least thats what I was told). I am working on a download to work with the existing book for changes to the draft, but I'm still testing the drafts daily and making tiny changes.

      Stay tuned on the blog when I'll have the update available. I'm also working on putting together a new set of patterns to work from. Depending on how my sample goes today I might have a revision to download by next week.

      If you want to get the hard copy of the book, I have them at 20% off on my website which will probably make up for the shipping charge to South Africa.

      -Jennifer

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